Last week was Rath Yatra the chariot festival in India.
In the Indian city of Puri millions pull the huge wooden chariots of Lord Jagannath and his siblings through the streets. The crush is so intense, with thousands jostling to pull the ropes it has given the English language the word Juggernaut.
AV: A massive inexorable force that seems to crush everything in its way.
In other cities chariots big and small hit the street. As a boy I would take the little images of Jagannath and his siblings for a bumpy ride around the block as I pulled the little wooden chariot up and down the street. Now ISCKON the International Society of Krishna Consciousness or Hare Krishnas as they are popularly known take out a mega chariot procession blocking the streets for blocks.
This year too was the same. But there was one thing new. A different kind of chariot rolled out that morning not drawn by ropes but by electricity.
The city’s beleaguered tram system had their own Rath Yatra
This is Sandip Roy in Kolkata
An old tram car festooned with garlands and posters of big eyed Lord Jagannath rolled out of the tram depot while volunteers chanted prayers
PRAYERS
In many ways Kolkata’s old streetcars have been in dire need for prayers. Kolkata was the first city in India to have trams. In 2023 Kolkata marked 150 years of trams. Those first trams were drawn by horses. At one time there were 177 trams and 1000 horses. Then came steam engines. In 1902 Calcutta became the first Asian city with trams that ran on electricity.
But the future for trams seemed bleak in the city despite the fact they are a green mode of transport and many cities around the world are bringing them back at great cost.
However the government in Kolkata thought of trams as antiquated, out of date. The former transport minister said trams were not practical in a congested city like Kolkata where only 6% of the area is taken up by roads.
A dogged group of streetcar enthusiasts like the Calcutta Tram Users Association has been trying to keep up the fight.
Filmmaker Mahadeb Shi is one of them. He has been putting together Tramyatra festivals to drive up support for trams. To make them popular again.
MS1: main aim is actually popularity. Popularity because it was losing its popularity somehow
It still seemed a losing battle. The government tried to lay asphalt over the tram tracks which let to a court case by citizens groups. That case is still pending in the Supreme Court. But this year as the festooned Ratha Yatra tram rolled out something different was in the air.
A newly elected legislator Rupa Ganguly was on hand to flag off the trams. She says the auspicious occasion of ratha yantra is a good day to kick off a new journey for the trams
RG1: Aajke rathaytra shubho diney tram yantra mannish dekhuh notun kore ambar
The reason for the hope? A new government has come to power in Kolkata sweeping out the old regime which had been around for 15 years. And it’s shown interest in trams after many years. Mahadeb Shi says its talking about things like up gradation which is exactly what activists had been fighting for.
MS2: Aamra khub lucky je barbe cheyechilam upgradation kortey hobe exactly shei
As tram bells clang behind him. Mahadeb Shi says its early days and change will not happen overnight. He knows patience will be needed.
MS3: Asha kochi na overnight hoye jaabe. Chaibo dhoirjo dhoren
He is heartened that the government is putting out an idea not just to restore some current tram routes but create new ones for example one connecting two hallowed temples, a sort of pilgrimage tram.
But Rupa Ganguly says while all that is good, she just wants her old route back tram 24/29 taking her from Ballygunge to Tollygunge in South Kolkata, a streetcar she had once ridden almost every day.
RG3: Aamaar mon bhorbe jejdin Bollygunge theke tollygunge chobbish untirish ta chlore
Because apart from everything in a world where everything is rushing there’s something peaceful about a tram. We all need that peace she said.
RG4: Nijer money Nijer gotitey shey jaay. Ei shantir projojon aache.
The best way of slowing down time an Indian American friend who lived and worked in Kolkata once said is to stir a pot of tomato soup. Or ride a tram.
Activists hope the chariots of Jagannath will remove all obstacles in the way of a tram revival in Kolkata.
This is Sandip Roy in Kolkata for KALW